THE HAPPIEST HOUR

FU KUN WU AT THAIKU

5410 Ballard Ave NW, 706-7807

Location: Old Ballard, resting discreetly in the back of Thaiku restaurant.

Description: Drawing upon a Chineseapothecary motif, the interior is packed with so many interesting things it resembles a museum exhibition. It's quite clean, a bit bright, and all so carefully arranged.

Why you should go: Happy hour brings $5 yohimbe-infused cocktails. Yohimbe is an herb derived from the bark of African evergreens, and its warning list of side effects only makes it more enticing: It's a purported aphrodisiac, stimulant, and mild hallucinogen. (Try the Yohito, a mixture of yohimbe, ginseng, rum, lime, and mint.)

The tragic twist: Fu Kun Wu allows you to order only one yohimbe cocktail a night. Apparently no one wants to witness any of your raunchy catastrophes.

Happy hours: Daily 5-7 pm.

Happy-hour drink specials: $4 well drinks and $5 specialty cocktails, which double as body-enhancing potions (the Radiant Flower contains lemon, mint, and a tincture of gin with herbs said to promote female radiance and sexual vitality).

Happy-hour food specials: A great menu of $4 small plates, which includes Crying Tiger (grilled marinated beef) and Por Pia Tawt (deep-fried-potato/yellowcurry wonton wraps). MARTI JONJAK