Best latkes

SERVES 12 (MAKES 45) j IV2 HOURS

This recipe was inspired by the latkes Jenn Louis makes occasionally at Lincoln Restaurant. For her frying tips, see page 101.

3 lbs. russet potatoes

1 medium onion

4 large eggs

3 tbsp. flour

6 tbsp. dried bread crumbs

About 1 tsp. kosher salt

¼ Sp. pepper

About 3 cups olive oil for frying

3 cups applesauce

Crème fraîche, chopped chives, and good salmon roe such as Tsar Nicoulai's gold pearl

1. Peel potatoes, rinse, and coarsely shred on a box grater, transferring to a bowl of water as you go. Shred onion into a finemesh colander, discarding any uneven chunks. Pour potato mixture on top and drain. Rinse and dry bowl.

2. Squeeze handfuls of potatoes and onion to remove liquid, then pile on kitchen towels. Wrap and wring well. Whisk eggs, flour, bread crumbs, 1 tsp. salt, and the pepper in dry bowl. Add potato mixture and toss with hands until evenly coated.

3. Preheat oven to 200°. Filling a 1A-CUp measure three-quarters full, scoop potato mixture onto baking sheets. Pour 3A in. oil into a large frying part with sides at least 2 in. high. Inserta deep-fry thermometer and heat oil over medium-high heat to 350°.

4. Put a portion of potatoes on a wide L metal spatula, press intoa3-in. cake, and »push into hot oil with another metal spatula. Shape 3 more latkes, sliding into oil; cook, turning once, until browned at edges but still soft in center, 2 minutes. Adjust heat to keep oil between 300° and 350°.

5. Transfer latkes to paper towels, then to a wire rack over a rimmed baking pan. Sprinkle with salt and keep warm in oven. Repeat to make remaining latkes; use a second pan when the first is full. Serve with applesauce, crème fraîche, chives, and roe.

Make ahead; Hold latkes at room temperature up to 3 hours. Rewarr#Ón rimmed Spans in a 300° oven 10 to 15 minutes.

PER SERVING 290 CAL., 48% (l38 CAL.) FROM FAT; 5.1 G PROTEIN; 16 G FAT (2.5 G SAT.); 34 G CARBO (2.4 G FIBER); 182 MG SODIUM; 71 MG CHOL.

Marion berry jam doughnuts (sufganlyot)

MAKES ABOUT 20 | 21A HOURS

Though doughnuts are amazing when eaten warm, they're also good fried ahead. That's what Jenn does when she makes this traditional Hanukkah dessert at home, so she can focus on her guests.

2 tbsp. active dry yeast

1 cup plus 1 tsp. sugar, divided

2 ¾AtO 3 cups flour

2 large eggs

2 tbsp. unsalted butter, softened

½ tsp. freshly grated nutmeg

2 tsp. kosher salt

4 to 5 cups vegetable oil for frying

2 tsp. cinnamon

1 cup marionberry or other favorite jam

1. Combine yeast, 1Ii cup warm (110°) water, and 1 tsp. sugar in a small bowl. Set aside until foamy, about 5 minutes.

2. Put 2 ¾ cups flour in bowl of a stand mixer or mixing bowl and make a well in the center. Add eggs, yeast mixture, 1A cup sugar, the butter, nutmeg, and salt. Mix with dough hook on medium speed, scraping inside of bowl occasionally, until dough is smooth and stretchy, 8 to 10 minutes. If needed, add about 1A cup more flour and mix until dough pulls free from bowl and is no longer sticky. (To mix by hand, stir with a spoon, then knead on a board until smooth and stretchy, 8 to 10 minutes, adding flour to keep dough from sticking.)

3. Rub dough with a bit of oil, turn over in bowl, and cover. Let rise in a warm place until doubled, 1 hour. In a bowl, mix remaining sugar and the cinnamon.

4. Push dough down to release air and shape into a smooth ball. Roll on a lightly floured surface to Va in. thick. Using a 23Min. round cutter or drinking glass, cut rounds and place on 2 lightly oiled baking sheets; gather scraps and reroll as needed. Cover lightly with plastic wrap and let rise in a warm place until puffy, 20 minutes.

5 Pour lin. oil into a 5- to 6-qt. pan, insert a deep-fry thermometer, and warm oil over medium-high heat to 325° to 350°. Using a slotted spoon, slip 4 rounds into oil, one by one. Fry until deep golden, turning once, 2 to 3 minutes total; adjust heat as needed to keep oil between 275° and 350°.

6. Lift out doughnuts with slotted spoon, letting drain slightly, and put in bowl of cinnamon sugar. Turn insugarwhilewarm, using a fork, then set on a platter. Repeat with remaining rounds.

7. Poke each doughnut to center with a teaspoon handle. Fit a pastry bag with a V3-in.-wide round tip (or snip a corner off a resealable plastic freezer bag), then fill with jam. Pipe or squeeze about 2 tsp. jam into each doughnut (you may need to squeeze doughnuts to hold them open).

Make ahead: Up to 4 hours, wrapped airtight, at room temperature.

PER DOUGHNUT 172 CAL., 24Ü (41 CAL.) FROM FAT; 3 G PROTEIN; 4.7 G FAT (l.2 G SAT.); 30 G CARBO (1.8 G FIBER); 162 MG SODIUM; 24 MG CHOL.

THE FRYING GUIDE

* use the right oil For shallowfrying latkes, Jenn Louis likes the flavor and good-for-you factor of olive oil. For deep-frying sufganiyot, she uses neutral-flavored rice bran oil or vegetable oil.

* use enough oil To cook food evenly, you need about 3U in. oil for shallow-frying and ? in. for deep-frying.

* WATCH THE TEMPERATURE Between 300o and 350° for latkes and 275° and 3500 for doughnuts gives you a crisp crust and tender interior. Too low, and food will suck up oil like a sponge. Too high, and it'll burn.

* GET A GOOD THERMOMETER Taylor's classic candy/deep-fry analog thermometer ($n; amazon. com) has a sturdy clip.

JD HEALTHY HOLIDAY RECIPES LIGHT, FESTIVE, SATISFYING APPETIZERS AND DINNER MENUS: sunset.com/heaithyholiday